Why Color Is Everything in Tanzanite
Tanzanite is a color-driven gemstone. Unlike diamonds, where cut dominates value, tanzanite's worth is determined primarily by the depth, purity, and saturation of its blue-violet color. Two tanzanites of identical size and clarity can differ in value by 10x based on color alone.
Understanding the color grading system is the single most important skill for buying tanzanite jewelry wisely.
The Color Grading System
AAA — Exceptional (Top 1% of tanzanite)
The finest tanzanite available. Characteristics:
- Vivid, deeply saturated blue-violet — often described as "electric" or "royal" blue with strong violet overtones
- The color appears to glow from within the stone
- Strong color shift between blue and violet depending on lighting (incandescent light emphasizes violet; daylight emphasizes blue)
- Eye-clean clarity as standard
- Typically 5 carats or larger to achieve full color saturation
AAA tanzanite commands significant premiums and is appropriate for investment-grade purchases and heirloom jewelry.
AA — Excellent
High-quality tanzanite with strong blue-violet color, slightly less saturated than AAA. The most popular grade for fine jewelry — beautiful, clearly tanzanite, and more accessible than AAA. Eye-clean clarity standard.
A — Good
Medium blue-violet saturation. Clearly tanzanite but lighter in color. Good value for everyday jewelry where maximum color intensity is less critical. May have minor inclusions visible under magnification.
B/Commercial Grade
Pale lavender to pale blue. Genuine tanzanite but significantly lighter than the ideal. Appropriate for fashion jewelry at accessible price points.
How Lighting Affects Tanzanite Color
Tanzanite's trichroism means its color changes dramatically under different light sources — a feature, not a flaw:
- Daylight / fluorescent light: Emphasizes the blue component. The stone appears more blue-violet.
- Incandescent / candlelight: Emphasizes the violet component. The stone appears more purple-violet, sometimes with burgundy flashes.
- LED light: Varies by color temperature. Warm LEDs emphasize violet; cool LEDs emphasize blue.
When evaluating tanzanite jewelry, view the stone under multiple light sources. A stone that looks beautiful only under one type of lighting is less versatile than one that performs well across lighting conditions.
Clarity Standards
Tanzanite is a Type I gemstone — high-quality material is expected to be eye-clean. When evaluating clarity:
- Eye-clean: No inclusions visible to the naked eye at arm's length. The standard for quality tanzanite jewelry.
- Loupe-clean: No inclusions visible under 10x magnification. Rare and commands a premium.
- Slightly included: Minor inclusions visible under magnification. Acceptable at lower price points if eye-clean.
- Avoid: Any inclusions visible to the naked eye in a tanzanite ring or pendant. These significantly reduce both beauty and value.
Best Settings for Tanzanite Rings
Tanzanite's Mohs hardness of 6–6.5 and perfect cleavage in one direction make setting choice critical for rings. The stone is more vulnerable than sapphire or ruby and requires protective settings for daily wear.
Bezel Setting — Best for Daily Wear
A continuous metal rim around the stone's circumference provides maximum protection for tanzanite's edges and cleavage plane. The most practical choice for tanzanite rings worn regularly.
Halo Setting
A ring of smaller diamonds or white sapphires surrounding the tanzanite provides lateral protection while creating a dramatic visual effect. The halo also makes the center tanzanite appear larger.
Three-Stone Setting
A tanzanite flanked by two diamonds or sapphires. The side stones provide some lateral protection and create a classic, elegant look. Choose substantial side stones that protect the tanzanite's girdle.
Avoid: High Prong Settings for Daily Wear
High prong settings expose tanzanite's edges and elevate the stone, increasing impact risk. If you love prong settings, choose a low-profile design with substantial prongs that cover the stone's girdle.
Best Settings for Tanzanite Pendants
Pendants are the ideal format for tanzanite — the stone hangs freely, rarely contacts hard surfaces, and the setting can showcase the stone's color from all angles. Prong settings are more appropriate for pendants than rings.
- Bezel pendants: Maximum protection, clean modern look
- Prong pendants: Maximum stone visibility, more traditional look. Choose substantial prongs.
- East-west settings: Oval tanzanite set horizontally creates a modern, architectural look that showcases the stone's length
Metal Choices
White Gold or Platinum
The most popular choice for tanzanite. The cool, neutral tone maximizes the visual impact of tanzanite's blue-violet color, allowing the stone to dominate. Platinum is the most durable option for rings.
Yellow Gold
Creates a warm contrast with tanzanite's cool blue-violet. Particularly beautiful with violet-dominant tanzanite. 18k yellow gold is the traditional choice for fine tanzanite jewelry.
Rose Gold
The warm pink tone creates a romantic contrast with tanzanite's blue-violet. Particularly popular in contemporary designs.
Carat Weight and Color Saturation
Tanzanite's color saturation increases with size — smaller stones (under 2 carats) often appear lighter and less vivid than larger stones of the same quality grade. This is because the depth of color requires sufficient stone thickness to develop fully.
- Under 1 carat: Expect lighter color saturation even in high-grade material
- 1–2 carats: Good color development in AA and AAA grades
- 2–5 carats: Full color saturation achievable in all grades
- 5+ carats: Maximum color depth; investment-grade territory
Certification
For tanzanite over 1 carat, request a certificate from a recognized gemological laboratory:
- GIA (Gemological Institute of America): The most recognized globally
- AGL (American Gemological Laboratories): Excellent for colored stones
- Gübelin Gem Lab: Swiss laboratory, highly respected for premium stones
Certification confirms the stone is genuine tanzanite, documents its color grade and clarity, and confirms heat treatment status.
Shop Tanzanite Jewelry at Brie & Marie
Browse our Tanzanite collection — rings and pendants in white gold, yellow gold, and sterling silver, with color grade, clarity, and carat weight disclosed on every listing. For the complete tanzanite guide, see: Tanzanite Gemstone Guide: Rarity, Grading, and Geologic Origins.
